A Day in Dubai

The world's tallest building was too tall to fit in the picture

It was time to begin the next chapter of the trip. From Istanbul I would fly overnight to Dubai. I purposely booked my flight so I could have a nice long layover in Dubai for a day before hopping on another overnight flight to Mumbai, India. To be honest, I was a little sad leaving Istanbul, and this half of the world for that matter. Europe has always been my favorite area of the world to visit and Istanbul became one of my favorite cities that I’ve visited. But it was time to move on, and the next thing I knew I was on my way to Dubai.

I was already familiar with some of the things to do in Dubai, which is why I wanted to spend a day there. It worked out perfect too because this place was wayy too expensive to spend more than a day at on this trip. But yea, Dubai is home to what is currently the tallest building in the world, the Burj Khalifa, as well as some insane malls and luxurious accommodations and attractions. This place pretty much blew me away as soon as I arrived. It reminded me of Vegas, but with more money and it’s an actual city. The first place I went to was the Burj Khalifa, and I planned to go to the top. They don’t actually take you to the top, but they take you to the 124th floor (out of 163) which is still pretty high, much higher than any of the other surrounding skyscrapers. So it was still a really nice view, with the Persian Gulf on one side and desert forever on the other. It’s a really tall building and it was very, very impressive to look at; more so from the bottom than the top.

After walking around the Burj for a while I walked through the Dubai Mall for a bit, which was overwhelming, and then the Mall of the Emirates, which was also overwhelming. These malls have every store ever created, as well as waterfalls, ice skating rinks, and even an indoor ski resort (which is why I went to the Mall of the Emirates). So I got to go snowboarding in Dubai, and although the hill was much less impressive than the actual mountain I still had a lot of fun. After some snowboarding, I wanted to check out the Burj Al Arab (7 star hotel and most luxurious in the world) but unfortunately they won’t let you in without a reservation, and even more unfortunately… I didn’t have a reservation. I went to the beach for a bit and made my way back to the airport to prepare for the next flight, the one that would take me to India.

Shredding some pow at the mall in Dubai

But real quick, one thing that really surprised me about Dubai was the amount of Westerners I saw there. Everybody speaks English more than anything else and I swear I saw more Americans there than I’ve even seen in America. I don’t exactly know the story behind why there were so many Americans there and less locals (I know Dubai is probably a tax haven and shopping capital for anyone who has money) but it really surprised me quite a bit, and it was hard to wrap my head around any particular culture that existed here because there wasn’t much authenticity to the place. All in all, a good trip to Dubai. I might go back if it’s ever on the way to anywhere I go in the future.

Balloons

After my major miracle in Istanbul, there was one other place in Turkey I really wanted to go to that was still worth visiting this time of year. It's called Cappadocia, and it reminds me a lot of Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah. It's basically composed of a ton of volcanic rock formations that took shape a bunch of years ago into these trippy spire-like formations that encompass the entire landscape right in the middle of Turkey. It's a pretty incredible place and perfect for the outdoors. Hiking, biking, camping, and hot air ballooning are all popular here. The must-do is the hot air balloons. Of course they're a little pricey, so I was debating with myself over whether to do them or not. I was with my Portuguese and French friends, Tiago and Antoine, who I had met in Tel Aviv in the cab on the way to the airport and who had stayed with me in Istanbul. We decided to all go to Cappadocia and we had an awesome hike on the first day. I felt like I was on another planet after seeing the size and shape of some of these strange rocks surrounding me everywhere.

On the second day, Tiago and I took to the skies and decided to get ourselves a hot air balloon ride. We had to wake up nice and early to catch our ride, which provided us with an incredible and memorable sunrise from above. It was definitely one of the coolest things I did on this trip. I highly recommend doing one of these rides, especially if you ever find yourself in Cappadocia. I had never been in a hot air balloon before and I was surprised at how smooth the ride was. They squeezed about 24 of us in one basket, which was a little tight, but other than that it was a great ride. There must’ve been over 30 other balloons in the sky with us. It was really a sight to see, and the views were unreal. The pilot was a pro, and would guide the balloon literally inches away from some of the rock formations as we flew at low altitude. As we gently cruised through the narrow valleys below, we eventually began to elevate to a height of almost 700 meters, which gave us the best view of the surrounding area. This is when things got a little scary, being suspended in a small basket in the sky at a high altitude made me feel pretty small in the grand scheme of the endless horizon surrounding us, but it was such a peaceful and surreal feeling. We then began to gently descend, and landed safely; not bad for getting back to the hostel at 7:30 in the morning. With the rest of the day ahead of us, the first thing I needed was a nap.

Sunrise in Cappadocia

We spent the rest of the day walking around a bit more, but nothing too crazy. The last thing we did was meet up with some of Tiago’s Portuguese friends who were also visiting coincidentally, and we all saw a beautiful sunset from a perfect viewpoint. With views of both sunrise and sunset that day it was time to get some sleep. I was pretty satisfied with my time in Cappadocia after that balloon ride, and the following morning we headed back to Istanbul.

I only had a day or two left in Istanbul when I got back, and all I had to do was pick up my Indian visa and prepare for what would be not just the next leg of the journey, but the next chapter of my entire adventure. I had officially committed to taking this trip around the world at this point, and India would be the bridge to take me from Europe into Asia. I spoke to quite a few people on my trip who had traveled to India and heard some pretty incredible things. Incredible things that had to do with the not just sights to see, but the way that India alone can change your life and completely transform your perspective on traveling and experiencing new cultures. This place sounded like the ultimate destination for the experienced traveler; the holy grail, the big challenge. I was more than willing to challenge myself to see if I could do it, and this is what partly led to my decision. I was so excited to go to a completely new place. I had been mostly traveling through Europe for the last 6 months and I was ready for something new. This was the beginning of when everything that I thought about traveling and culture would begin to change.

Miracles of Istanbul

After my amazing 12 days in Israel/Jordan/Palestine it was time to return back home to Istanbul, which was acting as my base for a couple side trips in this part of the world.

I got back to Istanbul and that very night was the beginning of a crazy story that starts off as a really bad situation that could have gotten a lot worse, and ends in a complete miracle. This is the story of how I got my phone stolen and miraculously got it back in a city of over 15 million people:

I went out with a friend I met through couchsurfing in Istanbul the same night I got back from Israel and had a few drinks. Okay, maybe more than a few drinks. But it was a good time, in fact it was so good that after my friend returned home for the night I wanted to continue going out, and tried looking around for some bars and places to hang out at, but almost everything was closed in the wee hours of the morning. During my late night stumble into what I thought was the direction of my hostel, I was walking down a narrow street, and in front of me was a group of four guys about my age and probably Turkish who were going the opposite direction. They definitely had a few drinks themselves, and one of them in particular decided to bump into me. Bad idea, so I immediately turned around and knocked him out cold in one swing, taking care of his three other friends shortly after that. It was fun. Just kidding, the other guy actually swung at me first, which was pretty easy to dodge given his lack of stability from a little too many beverages that night. He began yelling at me in some other language which didn't turn out to be that intimidating, but he kept swinging and swinging, and in the process of this my phone fell from my hand to the ground. When I tried to retrieve it from the ground there was a drunken tornado of arms blocking my way so I had to step back and wait for the group of hooligans to continue their way up the rest of the street, and when I went to the spot where I saw the phone fall, it was missing.

This unfortunate situation made it very difficult to find my hostel that night and I spent a good couple hours meandering through random streets going in who knows what direction, trying to ask anybody that was left awake for directions and help to find the cheese at the end of this maze. After asking everyone in the city and calling the hostel a couple times, somehow I found my way back just as the sun began to rise. As Istanbul began to wake up, it was my turn to sleep and worry about the phone situation the next day.

The next day I woke up to a hangover without a phone. I know it might sound lame to make such a big deal out of losing my phone but this thing had worked so well with streamlining everything during my travels that it became my most important asset. It also acted as my camera and it had all of my Jerusalem pictures still on it with no backup. I was willing to get this thing back or replace it by any means, so the first thing I did was turn on the 'Find my iPhone' function via laptop to lock my phone and display a message stating that my phone was lost and 'please call this number (my Dad's American phone number)' if found. Later that day the phone popped up on the GPS tracker through 'Find my iPhone' and I even got the local police involved. They actually took me to the area that was shown up on the phone but we couldn't find anything.

I went back to the hostel and just as I got on the phone (via Skype) with the phone company to get a replacement, my Dad messages me via Facebook saying that some Turkish guy called him and said he had my phone and gave my Dad his number. My Dad gave me the number, we contacted the Turkish guy, and met up with this guy at his shop, and sure enough, he had the phone. It was pretty amazing. I just couldn't believe that it actually worked. The guy that had my phone wasn't the guy that stole it, but was someone who the thief must've taken the phone to to get rid of since my phone was locked and he couldn't do anything with it. The SIM card was missing for some strange reason but I got a new one, and everything was somehow miraculously back to normal.

Unbelievable. I swear I've had some of the best interactions with Turkish people. This fully supports my idea of the vast majority of people being genuinely good in this world and was another highlight of humanity that I experienced during this trip, among countless. I can't get enough of good stories like this, and the more I travel, the more great things I see happening. Some may not be as miraculous as this, but I still experience genuine acts of kindness from most people on a day to day basis, and I'll remember this experience for quite sometime.

The Holy Land

I got the bus from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem and booked a cheap hostel for 3 nights near the old city, where most of the sites and history are located. I wasn’t familiar with the landscape around Jerusalem. Rolling hills for days, olive trees scattered around, towns and villages thousands and thousands of years old scattered throughout, dotting parts of Israel and the West Bank. As we were driving around Jerusalem towards the bus station I got my first glimpse of the masses of Orthodox Jews that populated most of this part of the city. When I saw their black hats, robes, glasses, and long hair growing on each side of their head, I began to ask myself questions nonstop for basically my entire time in Jerusalem. Why are they all dressed like this? What does each detail mean? What are they up to? Why does nothing make sense? While being confused about everything that was going on, I made my way to the hostel and set up there. I knew that I was going to be busy here and wouldn’t have much time to do anything outside of sightseeing and trying to make sense of everything that goes on in this place.

Western Wall Selfie

Not long after I arrived I wanted to walk around the old city to get a feel for this place. I honestly didn’t know a lot about everything to see here, and planned on doing a free walking tour the next day to learn about everything. But because I couldn’t do the tour the first day, I found myself walking through this place asking myself even more questions as to what the heck was going on. Why are there so many Arabic people here? Why is everyone speaking Arabic? How old is this place? – more and more questions about what I was looking at and where I was going. I knew the basics – The Church of the Holy Sepulcher is the holiest place in Christianity, allegedly where Jesus was crucified and laid to rest before resurrecting again. The Western Wall is the holiest place in Judaism, the last remaining piece of the old Jewish Temple and acts as an open Synagogue, and the Temple Mount is the third holiest place in Islam, where the Prophet Mohammed ascended to heaven. I actually didn’t know that much about these three places until after the tour, but I at least knew they existed beforehand, hence the confusion of significance when I first arrived at this place. But the tour was good. I learned a lot and still had a bunch more questions.

Dome of the Rock

Another crazy coincidence that happened was when I Skyped my parents a few days before arriving and they told me that there was a group of people from their church going to Israel on a tour, and one of them went to High School with me. I thought it would be cool to meet up with someone from back home so we arranged to meet on my first night in Jerusalem. They were staying at a hotel that was only a 10 min walk from my hostel so I met up with her and had a nice dinner, catching up on our trips and saying hello. It was really cool, and it was great to see someone else from back home after so long.

I did that tour the next day and wanted to go to the Israel Museum after but had to kill some time before it opened that evening, so I decided to go to the Garden Tomb, the second and ‘less popular’ location where Jesus was allegedly laid to rest before resurrecting. This actually turned out to be a more memorable experience than expected. When I first arrived there by myself it was right after another tour group arrived for their own tour of the area (there’s tour groups everywhere all the time). But the guy working there suggested that I should join in, and everybody in the tour group welcomed me to join them on their little tour of the Garden tomb.

I could quickly tell that this was a church group on a tour through Israel, just as most tour groups were. These people were from Southern California, which wasn’t too far from home, and they were mostly older, very nice people. The tour guide was great, and overall it was a very pleasant 30-45 minute tour. We saw the tomb and everything, and of course I made some friends with the nice old people along the way. After the tour they were going to have communion together and reflect on their experience with some praying in between. One of the nice old ladies insisted that I join them, and although I’m not a religious person I happily obliged. The service was great, and in the end I introduced myself to everyone and they all said a prayer for me and the rest of my journey. It was kind of a special moment, and even though I’m not religious I still really appreciated the support and kindness from these people, and the Garden Tomb ended up being a great success. I hit the Israel Museum next, which was also a success. I easily spent 3 hours there and saw the Dead Sea Scrolls, the oldest original biblical documents in existence, which of course was the highlight.

The next day was really interesting. After walking around Jerusalem and seeing what everything's all about I knew that I wanted to get a different perspective and make my way further into Palestine. I wanted to go to Bethlehem, to see not only where Jesus was allegedly born, but also get a feel for Palestine as well. The Church was pretty impressive but what I took away the most from this visit was the completely different perspective of the situation of the Palestinian people living in the West Bank. First off, there's a massive wall separating the West Bank from the rest of Israel in order to keep the Palestinians out. The wall is over 400 miles long and it's massive. There's a lot of graffiti covering parts of this wall, including some famous artwork from Banksy and a lot of political messages about the situation there. The messages definitely had an impact on my experience there and what was going on. We had a local guy take us on a little tour of a refugee camp not too far away, and I got a glimpse of the living conditions of these Palestinian refugees which was extremely interesting, and really opened my mind to the situation here. I never really saw anything like this on my trip so far, and I'm really glad I got to see it. I got a lot out of it. It was interesting to hear things from the Palestinian point of view, and for someone who doesn't usually bother with paying attention to these things, I definitely thought this was a good overall experience. Hopefully things will improve with this crazy situation between Israel and Palestine.. but one thing's for sure, the struggle is real.

The following day, before visiting the Dead Sea, my hostel friends and I decided to see Masada on the way; one of those fortresses on top of a mountain that overlooks the Dead Sea and provides fantastic views of the surrounding area. There were parts of this place that reminded me of the Grand Canyon. Much smaller, but same concept and similar landscape and rock formations. It was really impressive, and after spending a few hours up there we headed back down to the lowest place on Earth. We took a cab to a public beach on the Sea, changed into some swim gear, bought some mud, and headed into some of the saltiest water in the world. It was crazy. The Dead Sea is almost 10 times as salty as the ocean, and because of science you almost float out of the water. If you don’t know much about the Dead Sea then look it up; because of its saltiness there’s no need for swimming. You just effortlessly float on the surface of the water and relax. It was trippy, and we all got a kick out of it. After that, we covered ourselves in Dead Sea mud which is supposed to be good for your skin, and that was interesting. I never really did anything like that before but it was a lot of fun, and we had some good laughs while lathering ourselves in this weird stuff.

Dead Sea in the distance

It was a long day and we were pretty exhausted after the swim. We had to wait a while for the bus back to Jerusalem and when we got back we were exhausted.

The next day we went back to Tel Aviv, spent my last night at a great hostel there, got a cab to the airport the day after that, made more friends in the cab who had the same flight to Istanbul as me, and went to the airport. They say getting out of Israel is even harder than getting in, so you should show up 3 hours before your flight to get through security. They weren't lying. 4 interviews, a full bag search, a full body scan, and a friendly pat-down later, and I was out of security after almost two hours. That was by far the most security I've ever been through anywhere ever but I made it to my flight back to Istanbul, and after an incredible 12 days in Israel I was excited to return back to this city and figure out my next plan of attack.

Indiana Hughs

I arrived in Israel without knowing what to expect. You see things on the news and hear about all of the crazy political and war-related issues going on and think it's too dangerous and it's not worth visiting. It's definitely different to see so many armed soldiers walking around, and there's a lot of them everywhere, pretty much all over Israel. That was something quite different that I'll remember from visiting this place and it definitely took some getting used to after I first arrived. 

But Israel was always on the list of places to visit, with Petra being a mandatory side trip (it is one of the 7 wonders of the world). I was really excited for this part of the trip and had been looking forward to it for quite some time. I booked a round trip ticket from Istanbul and decided that 12 days would be enough time to see everything I wanted. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out logistics and where to go and how to get there and decided that I would tackle Petra first, just after arriving in Tel Aviv, and then make my way to Jerusalem after that.

Tel Aviv

I arrived in Tel Aviv in the morning after taking a flight that was WAY too early out of Istanbul. I had a solid day to see some of the main sites of Tel Aviv and was really impressed with what I saw. The Old Jaffa (old town) of Tel Aviv was really nice and sort of reminded me of the old towns in Croatia. Right on the water with a modern feel, but the history is still recognizable as you walk around. It was a solid first day with not too much busy stuff on the schedule. I also ate what was quite possibly the best hummus in the world (I was pleasantly surprised to find out how popular hummus is here).

But I continued on my way to Petra, and after organizing a bus ride down to the southern tip of Israel, walking across the border into Jordan, and hopping in a car to Petra, I had finally arrived. I stayed at a hostel for the night and woke up early the next morning to check this place out with my buddy Michael, a friend I made at the hostel.

When we got into the park we began our day of nonstop walking, all the time, all day, everywhere. We walked a lot that day, and we were absolutely exhausted by the end of it. It was well worth it though, and one reason why we walked so much was because we couldn't stop. I really underestimated just how massive this place was. It was HUGE and there was so much to see. We easily spent an entire day there. And yes, it was impressive, worth it, and I would recommend going to this place whenever anyone gets a chance to see it. Petra was seriously one of the coolest places I've been to on this entire trip and it blew my mind. The Treasury and the Monastery are incredible structures, the most famous in the city that you've probably seen pictures of or seen in the Indiana Jones movie. The entire city is carved into rock, and how the people here constructed these structures a couple thousand years ago baffles me.

It's Indiana Hughs!

Tons and tons of rock-engraved tombs and rooms with their little windows peaking out from the cliff faces. It gives a sort of character to the natural landscape here, and the natural beauty really begins to come to life. The climax of the walk for me was the Monastery. Mind-blowingly massive, so much detail carefully carved by what seemed like some mysterious giant who could even reach so high as to create the huge facades that overlooked the entire area that this thing dominated. It was impressive to say the least, and the views of the entire desert valley below that accompanied this already amazing location just added to the insanity.

Yea, it was a good day. We got back in the late afternoon, and while Michael and I were walking around in Petra earlier that day we ran into some fellow Americans he had met when he crossed the border the day before, and they invited us to come to their Airbnb accommodation to take part in a traditional Jordanian dinner feast later that evening. We decided to make it happen, and I was very happy that we did. The food was amazing, the company was amazing, and we had a fantastic evening. Rachel and Devin were the fellow Americans staying at this place and they were great people that I ended up traveling back to Tel Aviv with the following day. Allison is another fellow American that joined us in our feast, and she was living in Petra doing archaeological research, so she had a ton of great knowledge about this place. We engaged in memorable conversations that ranged from our stories of travel and life situations to hilarious philosophical discussions that weren't necessary but happened, and I'll remember that memorable meal for quite a while.

The next day was one of the most nerve racking days of my entire trip. We had to drive back from Petra to the border in the middle of a whiteout-snowstorm-blizzard-mess that closed most of the roads in the area and should have prevented us from going, but we went anyway. Rachel and Devin organized a driver to take us and Michael joined in on the fun as well, and we hopped in the car in the morning to begin a 6 1/2 hour drive that would normally take only 1 1/2 hours.

The long, stormy road ahead...

The beginning was the worst part. Our driver had driven in the snow once before and this whiteout was the worst I think I've ever driven in. I knew from when I arrived in Petra that these were winding roads, and if you veered too far off you were headed down a steep slope into the snowy abyss, and this frightened me a little bit. It was so windy and foggy and there were moments where you couldn't even see a single piece of the road in front of you. We just had to keep driving straight, slowly, and hope that we were still on the road. It was crazy. After making it through the worst part, waiting at another section of the closed road for about an hour until they opened it, and making our way down to lower ground, we somehow survived.

After being stuck in a car all day trying to survive the long, arduous drive through the tremendously unpleasant snowstorm in Jordan of all places, we finally made it to the border and had to stay the night in Eilat, on the southern tip of Israel. It’s a cool tourist trap that sits on the Red Sea, lined with resorts that reminded me of Cancun on a much smaller scale. After that night we made our way back to Tel Aviv. Michael ended up flying from Eilat to Tel Aviv to catch his next flight, so Rachel, Devin, and I took a bus instead. I wasn’t sure what the heck I was gonna do next but when Rachel and Devin told me that their couchsurfing host was able to host me as well that night, I tagged along and we got to his place in Tel Aviv.

The best view in Tel Aviv

This was maybe the coolest place I’ve couchsurfed so far. Pavel lived in the tallest building in Israel, on the 59th floor. The view was stunning, and I could’ve just stared out that window the entire time I stayed there and been happy. As if things couldn’t get any better, he brews his own beer, and he’s damn good at it too. He fed us beer all night and we had a great time getting to know each other. What was also crazy about this experience was that there was a huge coincidence that would happen between Pavel and I, and I wasn’t even the one that found this guy on couchsurfing. Turns out that Pavel went to Burning Man last year too. And when he showed me pictures of his camp I recognized it immediately. I had been to his camp at burning man last year, and although I didn’t actually meet him when I was there, I met his friend and definitely hung out at that spot. He called the friend I met to see if he could meet up with us that night, but unfortunately he was busy. Things were crazy enough as it was, and I guess this really is a small world.

The next day I got to help Pavel bottle his newest batch of beer which was super fun. I didn’t think I would be bottling some homemade beer in Tel Aviv, but there I was, bottling away and having a blast. Unfortunately, I couldn’t stay longer because Pavel had some other surfers coming through that night, so I booked the cheapest hostel I could find, stayed the night, and headed off to Jerusalem the next day, mentally prepared to be overwhelmed with history, culture, religion, and asking myself more questions than I could imagine about the existence of this insane city I was about to visit.