Life and Death

Varanasi is the holiest city in India and one of the oldest currently inhabited cities in the world. It’s important. It’s mostly important because of the Ganges River that passes through it. The Hindus and Jains believe that when someone dies in Varanasi and is cremated on the shores of the Ganges, they will achieve Nirvana and be liberated from the cycle of rebirth and suffering. Because the river is holy, it’s only necessary to further wash yourself in it and bathe in the holiness that rids you of your sins. This is what the world famous Ghats are for. Most people have heard of these things, but seeing them in person is definitely an experience and the obvious highlight of this place. As the steps lead down from the city limits to the river itself, there’s something to be said, and seen, for the juxtaposition between life and death; and Varanasi is the place where this contrast is emphasized more than ever. Seeing the public cremations happen on the shores of the Ganges gives you a new perspective on death and gives you a firsthand look at how death is viewed on this side of the world, which is of course in an entirely different view.

The Ghats

Death is merely part of the cycle, another step in the process of continuing your seemingly never-ending suffering, as the belief of rebirth is emphasized to reinforce this cyclic existence. It’s not a sad event when these cremations occur, rather it’s quite the opposite. The people are said to be liberated from this cyclic existence when they die here, thus no tears are shed during this event. The atmosphere remains grim, but in a different light. A subtle sense of hope and contentment fills the air as the ashes are thrown over the holy fire in which the cremations occur, and Nirvana is achieved. This is the belief, and it’s powerful in its own right. It’s a very real place, and the washing and bathing that happens is also a powerfully positive experience for people. I was surprised with the amount of positive energy and overall happiness there was here. This is not a city of death or destruction, this is a city of salvation.